Monday, June 10, 2013

Scandinavian Escapades

Another weekend, another adventure.  This time, Todd and I struck out on our own to uncharted (to us) territory. We spent the weekend in Stockhom, Sweden!  A long weekend spent with the Swedes was just perfect for getting a real feel for the city.  And for most of the weekend we were blessed with some amazing weather.

We hopped on another flight out of Eindhoven last Friday afternoon, and headed up north to a country that has a lot more space than the Netherlands.  Once landed, we took a bus into Stockholm, and it was amazing to see miles and miles of completely untouched countryside.  Forests and meadows and lakes, oh my!  It truly is a beautiful country.  And then, once you hit Stockholm, it suddenly feels very metropolitan.  

Our first evening began on a boat.  How very fitting for city where water plays such a large role. We saw signs describing Stockholm as the Venice of the north, which is also the way that Amsterdam is sometimes described.   Why can't they all just be waterlogged cities in their own right?  But back to the boat, it's actually a restaurant and bar and a great place to enjoy a drink with a view.





Across the river later.
After touching land again, we went in search of dinner, stopping along the way to admire the water and architecture.




We made our way into Gamla Stan, which is the old, historic section of the city. Gamla Stan is situated on a small island that is connected to the rest of Stockholm to the north and south by bridges.





Stockholm Cathedral.
We found dinner on a nice square in the old town, and we got adventurous in our menu choices.  The dish below consists of reindeer mousse, local salmon roe, prawn salad, and pickled herring with cheese.  The reindeer mousse was the one that threw me.  A bit odd, but not altogether bad.


We spent the rest of the evening wandering the city, and delighting in the fact that it didn't get fully dark until around 11pm.





The next morning, we went on a guided tour of the more modern parts of the city.  The first highlight was seeing H&M's headquarters...


Along with the Academy of Music, where the Nobel Prizes are awarded each December...



Here's the fancy shopping street, along with our tour guide, Nina...


This building is the bank where the term "Stockholm Syndrome" originated.  Hostages were held by bank robbers in this bank in 1973 for 5 days.  The hostages developed sympathetic feelings for the robbers and even defended them once they all made it out.



The Parliament Building.
The Royal Palace.
The tour was a great way to see a lot of the city and learn some of the history while doing it.

Another activity that day was checking out the Vasa Museum.  The Vasa was a Viking warship that set sail in 1628, sailed for about 1 hour before tipping over and sinking to the bottom of the Stockholm Harbor.  She stayed underwater for 333 years until the Swedes pulled her up.  She is held in the Vasa Museum, and is 99% original.  This ship was super cool to see, and is amazingly well preserved.





Replica, how the Vasa would have looked originally, with full decorative paint.
After getting our Viking on, we went on a walking spree through the city.  The Vasa was located out on one of the islands, and we were planning to take the metro back.  That is until we discovered how much it would cost to ride the metro.  Any guesses?  Well, how's $20 sound to you?  For one ride!  That actually was the cost for a 24 hour pass, but we only needed to ride it once, so this was not a viable option.  Therefore, we mentally prepared for the long walk, stopping for nourishment first in the form of fish and chips.

The park where we sat for lunch.

Fish and chips from a street vendor.

I had forgotten sunscreen, so this was my attempt to protect my poor Dutch skin.


We walked an estimated 9 miles this day.  I mapped it later that night when we got back to the hotel.  But it was a beautiful day, and a pretty great way to see the city.

Our next stop was for coffee in Sodermalm, a island south of the old town.  And for those of you familiar with the Girl with the Dragon Tattoo series, this is the area where Mikael and Lisbeth both lived in Stockholm.  We went to a place called Hermans Tradgardscafe, which had excellent views.



Todd's version - no sugar, no cream.

Panorama near our coffee spot.
The coffee was delicious and strong.  We then continued to mosey through Sodermalm, to another place with great views.  This time it was a beer garden in Mosebacke.  And continuing with the Dragon Tattoo hotspots, this is the neighborhood where Lisbeth bought her new, big home after (spoiler alert) scoring the loads of cash. 



Riksentelefon.
After enjoying the garden with a view, we headed to dinner.  I had researched this place ahead of time, called the Pelikan.  It is known for traditional Swedish food, so we figured we'd be able to find some meatballs there.  And we did.  The food was delicious and in a fun laid back atmosphere.



3 types of herring as an appetizer.

Authentic Swedish meatballs.

My choice was potato dumplings.
Again the crazy-out-of-control prices in Stockhom reared their ugly head.  Our meal cost over $100...for meatballs.  Good meatballs, but still meatballs.  This left Todd and I reenacting the SNL Weekend Update shtick "Really?!?!".  Youtube it if you don't know what I'm talking about.

Really, Sweden, $100 for a meal of meatballs? Really?!

Our last day in Scandinavia was spent drinking more coffee and seeing more of the city....





Then getting drenched in my first thunderstorm in 10 months.  Did you know we don't get thunderstorms in the Netherlands?


Because of the rain, we left Stockholm a bit earlier than expected and headed south to our hotel by the airport.  It worked out because this gave us time to explore the city near the airport named Nykoping.  It was a small city, and things were pretty dead since it was a Sunday night, but we did manage to see the castle and grab dinner.

The castle was more impressive back in the day, or so the little sign near it said.


A river runs through it.




This restaurant played Mariah Carey's Greatest Hits for the entire time we were there.  We suffered through "Hero" three times.

It was fun to have a bit of time to see another Swedish city.  And I must say that the Swedes certainly lived up to their reputation of being friendly.  All of our service was excellent and people on the street in Nykoping were even helping us to get around and find an open place for dinner.

This morning, we flew back home nice and early.  Thankfully, the sun was already shining bright at 3:30am!

This is a photo outside our window at 4am, no joke.
We made it back to Eindhoven before Todd even needed to start work today, which was pretty impressive.   All in all a great time in Stockholm, even if they did try to take us for all we're worth. It is a beautiful city!

And now I'll leave you with a picture of, uh, pastel coloured fish.

I thought these were called something else...




3 comments:

  1. And then a hero comes along...with the strength to carry onnnnn

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  2. Holland to Holland Blog = Where you go to see photos of Todd holding beverages in his right hand.

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  3. I guess the cheap airfare is offset by the expensive meatballs!! I know that all of the Scandinavian countries have that in common--high prices but lovely! ISJ!

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